'97 Town Car ''King Kongs In Da Trunk''

Work in progress? Car partially underway? If you want a spot to dedicate to the work this is where you'll want to go.
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CBFryman
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'97 Town Car ''King Kongs In Da Trunk''

Postby CBFryman » Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:44 pm

It's been a while since I posted audio over here. So I figured I'd come back with something worth looking at.

*For Those That Care*
Since I stopped posting over here (largely due to the Low-Hz drama and Adire crap) I've started to semi-seriously compete for the 2007 season. I'm not planning on going to finals but I plan on having points to have that option. I've always done installs on the side but in recent months I've done a lot. Now I only do larger things and not piddle paddle crap. I recently gained sponsorship through Sundown and I will tell you that the SAZ-1500 is one kick ass amp. I run in bassrace 139.9 with two Mag 15's and a SAZ at 0.5ohm. I can bassrace well into the mid 140's and burp a 147-147.5 depending on temperature and if the coils are hot. The best investment I've made so far is my very own term lab. I soon plan to go even louder. The SAZ is pushing the mags to their mechanical limits so the only way to get louder above tuning is more port area. Or that's how I see it. Anyway, this will be my first notable install in a while so I hope you enjoy.

/ramble

Here is a shot of the invoice/contract/receipt and check stub. A hefty chunk of change. Because this is for a good friend it is around $2000 instead of what my normal rate would put it at ($2400). In either case this is a $4000 install at the average shop.

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Here is a list of Things to be done.

-Alpine 9852 w/ Alpine RUE-4202 Remote
He wanted something cheap, yet functional and he wanted a remote. With all of the bass going in it I felt alpine was a good choice so it doesn’t skip.

-Kicker RS 5.25" Component Sets in custom door pods
Door pods are a maybe. I will have to take some measurements to see. There are a lot of switches and crap. It may end up being kick pods or just extra deadening and sealing the doors.

-Hifonics ZXi 4006
possibly running active or just giving the components plenty of overhead power I will see how it works out as far as sound with the OEM Xovers.

-2 Fi SSD 15's With Flat wound Coils in 6cuft @ 32Hz with 90sqin port area
Yep, with the prices and the amount of bass he wants Fi was the best choice I could think of. SQ isn’t taking top priority. He just wants to shake houses when he wants to and have good bass for his reggae.

-Hifonics BXi2006D
Hifonics may not be the best, but my BX was reliable and gave plenty of power for the money. I don’t think I am going to get a near 2kw amp for $350 from anyone else brand new with 1yr warranty.

-80+ sqft Sound Deadener
The majority of it will be RAAMatt. Possibly something cheap like eDead where good adhesion isn’t top priority.

-Knu Konceptz 1/0, 4ga, and RCA cables including Big 3
Knu is cheap and it looks pretty so that is what he got. I'm not a Knu fan but it works.
I'm pocketing roughly $240 from this after materials. I figure one weeks work putting in 2-3hrs a day.

Everything is on its way to my house and box building will commence Thursday. Once the box is started I will post pics to keep you entertained. My SPL goal is to bassrace over 143dB and retain good sound clarity. This will be my first install with Fi so I'm holding my breath for sucess. 143dB may not be a lot but you have to remember this is a luxury grandma car. The back deck is solid, the backing of the seat is 3/4" plywood, it doesnt fold down, and there are only going to be three 6" holes for the bass to vent from the trunk to the cabbin. Luckely there is enough room to fit a box for 2 18's in this trunk if you didnt want to retain storage space. This car is going to be able to hold two 15" woofers in a ported enclosure with room for the spare for groceries, soccer equiptment, and school books. All requirements of this install along with brick crumbleing bass.

Thanks for looking. Updates in 48hrs.
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Derek
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Postby Derek » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:44 pm

i want to see low hz stickers all over your car.


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X-OvrDistortion
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Postby X-OvrDistortion » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:47 pm

why go with the 5.25 instead of a 6.5 set?
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todd.brust
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Postby todd.brust » Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:24 am

i have a 97 Towncar and my numbers are pittiful...i hit a 136.0 on the termlab on the dash.....and i have sound deadener in my trunk...but it's with my SEs seale...i hit a 144.3 on a termlab in a ford focus...but thats a whole different story...awsome car but deffinetely not a SPL car....good luck with you project!
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John
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Postby John » Wed Feb 07, 2007 8:28 am

Sounds like fun...can't wait for the pics!
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CBFryman
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Postby CBFryman » Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:47 am

X-OvrDistortion wrote:why go with the 5.25 instead of a 6.5 set?


The doors are tight for speaker clearance. The OEM 5x7's barely fit the space. On the driver's side it will be a squeaze to fit 5.25" wide door pods while retaining usage of all of the switches and with out making it look goofy (power everything and its all controlled on the driver's side door). On the floor there is plenty of room for kick pods but the actual owner of the car (the customer's mom) wants to retain parking brake usage for what ever reason (it's an auto). There is room to build pods behind the parking brake but agian it will be a squeaze with 5.25" mids. On the passenger side there are miles of room. I used a dayton 7" to size up 6.5" + speaker rings and I just couldnt find a practical place on the drivers side.
Worse come to worse I can port the mids in an effort to increase output in the 80Hz area. Because he doesnt have the slighest idea what a sound stage is, and only wants good transient responce and clarity for the music, the subs are going to be ran up to 75-80Hz. I usually like to kill them at 60Hz though, any higher and bass becomes directional for me. This is why I did not spend the extra $10 on copper coils. I havent used copper coils but they are sapposed to make the woofers more bottom heavy while hindering top end. :cwm20:
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Postby Speakerboy » Wed Feb 07, 2007 3:39 pm

If the customer's mom still drives the car, maybe you want to include a small kill switch on the remote wire for the sub amp. That way she can turn them off when she drives. Something to think about as she is obviously being kind enough to let her kid mod her car. My parents would have flipped if I had done that when I was sharing a car with them.
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CBFryman
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Postby CBFryman » Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:51 pm

She wont be driving the car. I really don’t know why it mattered but oh well. The amp will have the bass knob so a turn of the knob kills 18dB of output. :)

Here are some update pics. The woofers will be very close, so close I have to mount them on a slight diagonal for both to fit on the baffle. Inside the port you can see a sliver of 4" PVC. Tomorrow I am sealing any joints I feel need to be sealed, truing everything up with the Jig Saw, and putting the top on. After that it will just be bracing, flushing any unflushed edges with the router, rounding over all edges with the router, and beginning the paint process. This will consist of filling all seams with a bit of bondo, rolling on a thick coat of or two of wood sealing high build primer, and painting it with a textured, metallic gray paint to match the trunk of the car.

The CD player gets here today and the rest should be here by Monday, Tuesday at the latest. The car is scheduled to be at my house on Monday.
http://www.carstereos.org/gallery/browseimages.php?c=139&userid=8756
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Postby CBFryman » Thu Feb 08, 2007 6:17 pm

Mo' Pics. 56k I feel sorry for you.

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Postby CBFryman » Thu Feb 08, 2007 6:20 pm

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