Driver's door lock

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KU40
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Driver's door lock

Postby KU40 » Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:17 am

the switch on the inside won't lock the door. the unlock part will work but the lock won't, it just clicks but doesn't seem to be passing any electricity through. So I don't know if just the lock side of the switch is bad, or if there was a wire cut along the way somewhere. The last owner apparently had an aftermarket alarm on it, so I don't know if they may have cut it for that for some reason? I thought mine would have keyless entry, but I didn't get a remote when I bought it, so I'm not sure if they just threw away the factory remote when they installed the aftermarket or if I'm just mistaken and it didn't come with keyless entry.

Anyway, any ideas on how to get the lock button to work so I don't have to lean across to lock from the passenger side? At first I just locked it from the keypad on the outside of the door, but then I found out that it didn't lock the back hatch if I did it that way (just the 4 doors). It arms the factory alarm so the alarm goes off when you open the back hatch, but it doesn't lock it to prevent the opening. dumb if you ask me.
-Nick aka NS1 aka mopey aka speedbump
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Member02
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Postby Member02 » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:13 am

sounds like either a bad relay or a loose connection.

I had the same problem once, it was a loose connection on the other end of the relay.
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todd.brust
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Postby todd.brust » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:24 am

does it consistantly not work? i'd say go and get a schematic of your door wiring and figure out if it takes a positive or negative trigger.....then test with a DMM wether or not it is getting that pulse....if it is getting the pulse...some locking/unlocking mechanism is f-ed up....if it's not getting the pulse...there has to be a bad connection elsewhere and all you have to do is find it :)
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X-OvrDistortion
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Postby X-OvrDistortion » Sat Jun 16, 2007 11:41 am

Check the switch first. Make sure it goes from High to Low and vice versa.
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KU40
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Postby KU40 » Sat Jun 16, 2007 1:44 pm

todd.brust wrote:does it consistantly not work?


yeah, it hasn't worked since I bought it. I think I found a schematic, it says it has a negative pulse.
-Nick aka NS1 aka mopey aka speedbump

Alpine CDA-9827

Crossfire CFQ5.2

JL Audio XR 650csi components, Planet Audio TT2300

Crossfire VR404 on factory rear 6x8's until I get them upgraded

SI 15D2 + 3.8 @ 30 hz + Crossfire BMF 1000D = :)
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KU40
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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Postby KU40 » Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:37 pm

Well I looked and found the wire. It has another wire spliced into it, as does another wire in that big packet, which I'm assuming is also associated with the lock. Those spliced wires go to the alarm unit. I wouldn't think that would cause a problem because the alarm brain can't be acting like a switch since the wires are just spliced in, not cut.

So anyways I grew tired of trying to figure out something I probably never would with the skills I possess and am just saying screw it, I'll get remote keyless entry. Spend $150 to solve this problem! Actually i wanted it anyways since I've never had it and all the cool kids have it.
-Nick aka NS1 aka mopey aka speedbump

Alpine CDA-9827

Crossfire CFQ5.2

JL Audio XR 650csi components, Planet Audio TT2300

Crossfire VR404 on factory rear 6x8's until I get them upgraded

SI 15D2 + 3.8 @ 30 hz + Crossfire BMF 1000D = :)
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X-OvrDistortion
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Postby X-OvrDistortion » Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:46 pm

you could just have a wire that is shorted out against a piece of metal.

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