designing my next HT box for movies + music

General discussion for all questions based in the home audio/video world.
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kevox
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designing my next HT box for movies + music

Postby kevox » Wed Jan 02, 2008 11:08 am

This is my most recent design idea for a room-shaking, heart-pounding box to accomodate either two IA 187 10s or 2 MTX 8000 12's (the two 10s if my dad deicdes he doesn't want to buy a 2nd MTX 12"). EDIT: I see some of the lines got cutout during the transition to the website - weird - anyways it is pretty much drawn to scale (as best I could) so you can get a greater look at how it would look when completed - quite a tall box eh;)

For the 12's I would change the internal air space - bumping it from 3.5 to 4.25 or 4.5 net - and the port area - increasing it another 5-7 sq. inches (while maintaining the same 28hz tune).

My theory with this box (which will include bracing and be constructed of 1" MDF once the design is finalized btw!) is that it will be tuned low (28hz) to allow excellent extension on most movies while still being able to play music very well thanks to the strong 1" thick walls and not too low of a tuning. I'm also theorizing that the port - having no sharp turns whatsoever - will give the box a pleasant smooth-flowing transition which will promote air movement inside and virtually eliminate any port noise. I didn't put them in the diagram there but there will also be 45 degree corner-pieces for the two bottom corners...again, to promote positive air flow (and to a lesser extent, prevent standing waves from developing in the corners).

Here's where you come in....CRITICIZE IT!! Tell me what you think I can do to improve on this, if it's any good to begin with or if I should scrap the whole thing and start over. I want to build the best possible box and I honestly believe I'm on the right track but I want to hear your guys' opinions before I advance into the construction stage!
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X-OvrDistortion
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Postby X-OvrDistortion » Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:31 pm

I think you can improve on your mspaint skills!!

Have you thought about flair ports instead of the slot port?

Can you make both of them downfiring with the port facing the rear or the floor too? I am just asking questions.

I wonder where you got those IA 10's from. :D
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Postby Derek » Wed Jan 02, 2008 6:18 pm

X-OvrDistortion wrote:
I wonder where you got those IA 10's from. :D


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Postby KU40 » Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:31 pm

how are you going to bend the wood like that? heat it up for a few hours then put it in a mold?
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Atomic Fusion
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Postby Atomic Fusion » Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:38 pm

kevox wrote:This is my most recent design idea for a room-shaking, heart-pounding box to accomodate either two IA 187 10s or 2 MTX 8000 12's (the two 10s if my dad deicdes he doesn't want to buy a 2nd MTX 12"). EDIT: I see some of the lines got cutout during the transition to the website - weird - anyways it is pretty much drawn to scale (as best I could) so you can get a greater look at how it would look when completed - quite a tall box eh;)

For the 12's I would change the internal air space - bumping it from 3.5 to 4.25 or 4.5 net - and the port area - increasing it another 5-7 sq. inches (while maintaining the same 28hz tune).

My theory with this box (which will include bracing and be constructed of 1" MDF once the design is finalized btw!) is that it will be tuned low (28hz) to allow excellent extension on most movies while still being able to play music very well thanks to the strong 1" thick walls and not too low of a tuning. I'm also theorizing that the port - having no sharp turns whatsoever - will give the box a pleasant smooth-flowing transition which will promote air movement inside and virtually eliminate any port noise. I didn't put them in the diagram there but there will also be 45 degree corner-pieces for the two bottom corners...again, to promote positive air flow (and to a lesser extent, prevent standing waves from developing in the corners).

Here's where you come in....CRITICIZE IT!! Tell me what you think I can do to improve on this, if it's any good to begin with or if I should scrap the whole thing and start over. I want to build the best possible box and I honestly believe I'm on the right track but I want to hear your guys' opinions before I advance into the construction stage!


Focus less on thick wood and more on good bracing... 3/4" should be plenty if you brace it properly.

Port size is more important than no bends in my opinion, to a point anyway... So make sure you've got plenty of port area.

If you already own the subs, may as well use them... But if you are starting from scratch, I'd get a different subwoofer, something like a Dayton DVC or Reference (used both, both are awesome).

Adam
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kevox
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Postby kevox » Thu Jan 03, 2008 5:14 pm

X-OvrDistortion wrote:I think you can improve on your mspaint skills!!

Have you thought about flair ports instead of the slot port?

Can you make both of them downfiring with the port facing the rear or the floor too? I am just asking questions.



lol ya I could put more time into the paint designing but the sad truth is I can see everything I need to from these simple one-line diagrams so I just don't spend the time drawing out all the double-lined seems and what not. I could use aeropors instead, I even have 2 4" ones just laying around, but then I wouldn't have nearly as much port area OR if I did use enough of them to equal the ~40 sq. inches i Have in that design they'd be friggin 30" long each so that's not going to happen...not only that but I really like the look of a mean slot port:)

X-OvrDistortion wrote: I wonder where you got those IA 10's from:D.
I got it from some chick addicted to gay porn; it was a good deal so I didn't ask any questions....
how are you going to bend the wood like that? heat it up for a few hours then put it in a mold?
Oh no that would be way too time-consuming....cut slits in the wood and it will bend quite a bit - utnil it breaks. The minor problem is finding the point where you've cut it enough to bend how you want it without it cracking majorly or breaking. Here are a few pics where I've successfully messed around with bending MDF...*refer to attachments*

Atomic Fusion wrote:Focus less on thick wood and more on good bracing... 3/4" should be plenty if you brace it properly.

Port size is more important than no bends in my opinion, to a point anyway... So make sure you've got plenty of port area.

If you already own the subs, may as well use them... But if you are starting from scratch, I'd get a different subwoofer, something like a Dayton DVC or Reference (used both, both are awesome).
And one of the gods of home audio chimes in!! I know 3/4" MDF would be sufficient however I figure it's only $20 extra for the 1" - which is significantly stronger - and if this box is going to live up to the hype I have in my head then that means it is going to last me a very long time so I might as well improve every little aspect I can even if it wont' have a drastic affect on the sound - add all the little things up to equal one big improvement right? And yes, there is plenty of port area - I think it was like 42 sq. inches for the two 10s, sound good to you Atomic? I only fear it MAY be a few inches too many...but hopefully not. Finally, yes I already have the subs and I would DEFINITELY choose Dayton Reference subs over these if I was still in the buying stage! Donno about the DVCs though, are they really better than the 187's?
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Atomic Fusion
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Postby Atomic Fusion » Thu Jan 03, 2008 9:04 pm

kevox wrote:lol ya I could put more time into the paint designing but the sad truth is I can see everything I need to from these simple one-line diagrams so I just don't spend the time drawing out all the double-lined seems and what not. I could use aeropors instead, I even have 2 4" ones just laying around, but then I wouldn't have nearly as much port area OR if I did use enough of them to equal the ~40 sq. inches i Have in that design they'd be friggin 30" long each so that's not going to happen...not only that but I really like the look of a mean slot port:)

I got it from some chick addicted to gay porn; it was a good deal so I didn't ask any questions....
Oh no that would be way too time-consuming....cut slits in the wood and it will bend quite a bit - utnil it breaks. The minor problem is finding the point where you've cut it enough to bend how you want it without it cracking majorly or breaking. Here are a few pics where I've successfully messed around with bending MDF...*refer to attachments*

And one of the gods of home audio chimes in!! I know 3/4" MDF would be sufficient however I figure it's only $20 extra for the 1" - which is significantly stronger - and if this box is going to live up to the hype I have in my head then that means it is going to last me a very long time so I might as well improve every little aspect I can even if it wont' have a drastic affect on the sound - add all the little things up to equal one big improvement right? And yes, there is plenty of port area - I think it was like 42 sq. inches for the two 10s, sound good to you Atomic? I only fear it MAY be a few inches too many...but hopefully not. Finally, yes I already have the subs and I would DEFINITELY choose Dayton Reference subs over these if I was still in the buying stage! Donno about the DVCs though, are they really better than the 187's?


Port area sounds good... I don't know much about the 187's compared to the DVC's so I can't comment, but my experience has been that generally, you can get a more desirable range of performance from a subwoofer designed for home audio because of how the parameters are designed. I know from my experience that the DVC gets nice and loud, goes deep, and at least the 15" would take 500 watts just fine. However, if your present subs are getting you the numbers you want, then by all means!

The enclosure thickness is a preference thing I guess... I used to have some 1.5" thick boxes around, and they were just too ****ing heavy... My later boxes with extensive bracing and 3/4" walls were quite a bit lighter and were just absolutely dead.

Good luck!

Adam
Found something better.

SIN's Freelance Female "Rear Entry" Super Hero
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kevox
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Postby kevox » Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:36 am

Alright sounds good! And I hear ya on someof those boxes weighing way too much....I built a 3 cu/ft box for one 12" out of 1" mdf with a 2" baffle and the beast weighed just over 100lbs when i shipped it! But the new owner was very pleased with it so it was all worth it in the end:) Plus, I figure why not go overkill since weight is not a concern. Heck if it gets too heavy, I'll just buy some roller wheels for PA equipment from Parts Express and build myself a small roller dolly lol. I've got another box to build before this one for a guy online so it'll be awhile before I start on this project but I think we're all in agreement that it's a solid design so let's hope it fits the bill when all is said & done!
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